As an engineer, I like to learn how things work. And when I was buying my first motorcycle, naturally, I wanted to know what to look for, so that I make my mind whether a potential purchase will worth it or not.
I have compiled this checklist based on my own experience as well as watching various YouTube videos (I have referenced them at the end).
I tried to group items by area of the bike, with a couple of exceptions.
Self diagnostics*
- There are no errors
- No pressure issues with the front and rear break
- Throttle goes from 0 to 100% and releases back to 0%
- No issues with the engine, ignition etc
*For some of the above checks, you might need an extra equipment and/or your bike would need to be able to perform self diagnostics. Consult with your service manual for that and also see what could be checked, note down the possible error codes as well as their meaning and determine what would be a deal breaker for you.
Frame
- It does not have any cracks
- It is not not bent
- The VIN is not scratched or has any signs of being tampered
- The VIN matches the VIN on the owner’s documents
Fluids
- Coolant level is on the maximum level that is appropriate
- Coolant does not look like it was neglected
- Oil level is to the maximum
- Oil does not look like it was neglected
- Break fluid level is on the maximum level that is appropriate
- Break fluid does not look like it was neglected
- Bike is not dripping anything before a ride
- Bike is not dripping anything after a ride
- No spots from fluids in the owner’s garage
(Front top)
Dashboard
- Make sure it works
- Go through the menu and see if everything works as expected
- Make sure all warning lights light up on ignition and that no warning stays on
Handlebar
- Steering wheel bearings are in good condition
- Handlebar is straight, not bent
Break/clutch levers
- Levers are straight and not bent
- Levers are pulsating and are not tight
- Levers have free-play
- Levers pull back when released
- Levers are not engaging the clutch/break when they are left untouched
- Clutch lever can engage and disengage the clutch with normal operation
Lights
- Low and high beams work
- Indicator lights work
- Brake light works
- License plate light works
Horn
- Check if it works
Gas tank
- No (significant) scratches
- No indication that the tank was re-painted (open the gas cap and look inside the tank) - could signal for a previous crash
- No rust inside the tank or around the gas cap
- Nothing else worrying by looking inside the gas tank
(Front bottom)
Suspension
- Forks have clean metal with no oil residue at all
- Forks are perfectly straight
- Forks have no scratches
- Forks have no dents
- If you can adjust anything (preload, rebound, compression), can you set it up for your weight and riding style?
- If the suspension is non-adjustable, is it appropriate for your weight and riding style?
Engine
- It runs immediately on cold start
- It runs immediately on warm start
- RPMs go down after warming up
- RPMs do not fluctuate while keeping a constant throttle
- There are no clunky or weird sounds
Clutch
- You can shift to/from all gears during ride
- No troubles when shifting gears
Radiator
- No visual damages on the radiator
- The fan turns on when engine gets hot after a while
Breaks
- Break pads are not worn out
- Breaks work
- There are no scratches on the disk brakes
- Disk breaks are straight (not bent or warped)
- Break lines are in good condition, without any cracks
Front wheel
- The wheel does not wobble when you try move it side-to-side (wheel bearings check)
- No dents, cracks or scratches on the rim
- Wheel is straight
Front tyre
- There is enough tread left on the tyre (check the markers)
- The tyre is maximum 5 years old (see the manufacture date)
- The tyre profile is not flat, not evenly (wavy) worn out, not with a V profile and not with any weird shape (suspension issues)
- The tyres are from the same model
- The tyres are with the correct size for the bike
- No repair work on the tyre
- No cracks on the tyre
- No bubbles on the tyre
- Is the rubber on/close to the edge of the tire worn? (track usage or aggressive/extreme lean angles)
- The tyre pressure is correct
(Rear top)
Rider/passenger seat
- Wiring underneath looks clean
- Battery visually looks good
- Battery voltage is good
- No cracks, cuts or other damages to the rider and passenger seats
- Any strips of rubber below the seat? (tyre burnouts)
(Rear bottom)
Shock
- If you can adjust anything (preload, rebound, compression), can you set it up for your weight and riding style?
- If the shock is non-adjustable, is it appropriate for your weight and riding style?
Rear wheel
- The wheel does not wobble when you try move it side-to-side (wheel bearings check)
- No dents, cracks or scratches on the rim
- Wheel is straight
Rear tyre
- There is enough tread left on the tyre (check the markers)
- The tyre is maximum 5 years old (see the manufacture date)
- The tyre profile is not flat, not evenly (wavy) worn out, not with a V profile and not with any weird shape (suspension issues)
- The tyres are from the same model
- The tyres are with the correct size for the bike
- No repair work on the tyre
- No cracks on the tyre
- No bubbles on the tyre
- The tyre pressure is correct
- Is the rubber on the edge of the tire worn? (track usage or aggressive/extreme lean angles)
- Is there a longitudinal wear? (tyre burnouts)
Chain
- It is lubed
- It is not too tight or too loose
- It has an appropriate slack
- It is not worn out
- It has no rust
- It follows a straight line
- It has no stiff links
Sprockets
- Teeth are not worn out
- Teeth are not bent
Exhaust
- It does not wobble
- Does it have or need a DB killer?
- Is the install job done well? (if it has a non-stock exhaust)
- No unusual smells when engine is running
Most of these are not deal breakers, but remember, as Ryan from FortNine says,
If the simple stuff are off-kilter, you can probably assume that the more complicated things are also out of whack.
Take everything into an account when forming your opinion on the bike. It will help you with making a decision whether to proceed with buying it, negotiating a better price or simply passing on the offer.
References
- 5 Telltale Signs of a Bad Used Motorcycle by FortNine
- How To Buy A Used Motorcycle by RevZilla